The British are leaving but the bargains are not. Hong Kong is still one of the top travel destinations in Asia, and shopping is an obligation. Cloth, antiques, gems, fine jewellery, electronics, cameras and an amazing array of clothing makes Hong Kong a mecca for bargain hunters from around the world. Add to this an international cuisine and some of the finest hotels in the world and it is easy to see what makes a visit so rewarding.

But what does one do in the city of retail once the shopping bags are full, the taste buds titillated, and the eyes grown weary of the magnificent skyline? More than a few visitors, lured perhaps by the tourist brochures, might take a peek at the infamous, old Wan Chai district on Hong Kong Island, where,in 1957, the fictional Susie Wong lived. This once seedy red-light district is now known for its budget shopping and wide variety of low to mid-priced restaurants. One may also notice that Wan Chai is home to a number of Saunas.

Avoided by most visitors because of a reputation that is undeserved today, these clean and pleasant marble palaces can be just the ticket to an hour or two of relaxation and pleasure. While many cater only to men, there are a few that accommodate both sees. Be assured that, whatever you may hear about the "special services" that may exist in other parts of Hong Kong, the saunas of Wan Chai are legitimate and safe.

A typical example, and one of the friendliest, is the Sunny Paradise Sauna on Lockhart road. At the front entrance there are pictures of the facilities, as well a listing of prices for a variety services including foot-rub/scrape, hair cut, massage, back-rub and more. You may be amazed at how inexpensive the services are compared to back home.

Walking into the reception area one is greeted with a smile and escorted into a locker room (men on the first floor, women on the second), handed a key to a locker, a robe, and sandals. After a hot shower its time to take the plunge - do you jump immediately into the large marble hot tub and let the water jets soothe that aching back? Or perhaps grab a washcloth from the refrigerator and step into the steam room for 5 minutes of perspiration before stepping into the marble pool of ice cold water? You might wish to visit the dry heat room or for the men, perhaps a shave as well.

Later, nicely robed and sitting in an comfortable overstuffed chair in the lounge you sip cha (Chinese tea) or a cool Coke while you watch Chinese soap operas on the large screen TV. The truly indulgent will also enjoy a foot rub and pedicure. Eventually you will be presented with a paper containing numbers and asked if you want a message. Each number represents one the host of trained Chinese masseuses standing by. Since you are visiting for the first time and have no preference one will be assigned.

Here is where the Saunas of Wan Chai become a truly special experience. Chinese massage is unique. Lying on a comfortable modern message table you will be covered with clean warm towels and for the next hour (or two) every tired and aching muscle will betenderly but firmly coaxed into relaxation and not only with the hands! Over every table there are metals bars that the masseuses hold on to in order to apply just the right amount of pressure as the feet are used to reach deep into the long muscles of the back and legs.